Dendrophiles and green thumbs rejoice because haute-iculture has well and truly been embraced by Sydney’s gastronomes.

Be they for harvest or merely aesthetic, we’ve now got more menus with a side of soil than you can poke a pair of shears at.

Here are a few to try this week.

The Garden at Establishment
252 George Street, Sydney, 2000
+61 2 9340 3100

Just to avoid any confusion we’ll get everything straight up front. The Garden sits out the back of the giant marble bar at Establishment and is different to Est., the fine dining restaurant just upstairs. All are owned by Merivale and so you’d be forgiven to thinking they’re part of the same giant foodie nucleus. Which they are but they’re still very different. Confused?

Think of The Garden as Est.’s more chilled-out cousin, it still has the family name but doesn’t feel the pressure of succession. Which works out perfectly because there’s a glass ceiling on top of it anyway (zing!). Probably more an atrium than a garden, there’s still enough fern life to feel like you’ve found a little in-city oasis.

Chiswick and Chiswick at the Art Gallery of NSW
65 Ocean Street, Woollahra, Sydney, 2025
+61 2 8388 8688

Celebrity chef Matt Moran is a country lad at heart so it’s a wonder he hadn’t launched the down-to-earth Chiswick years ago. Perhaps after tackling Sydney’s fine dining scene with ARIA, he might’ve been keen to simplify things and get back to his roots – so to speak. Whatever spurred the shift into casual dining, it’s been a rousing success. The legendary Moran family lamb may have also played a part in this but we like to think it’s all thanks to landscape gardener Peter Hatfield’s careful tending of the plot of herbs and vegetables just outside the main dining room.

Sister-site Chiswick At The Gallery (Art Gallery of NSW that is) launched late last year and has also been given the Hatfield touch, with a perfect plot of broccolini, kale and tomatoes picked three times a week for the kitchen.

Credit: foodandwine.com

Credit: foodandwine.com

The Grounds of Alexandria
7A, 2 Huntley Street, Alexandra, Sydney, 2015
+61 2 9699 2225

With its reputation that spans continents and a resident pig as famous as Kevin Bacon (seriously), The Grounds barely needs an introduction. What started as a little experiment juxtaposing the bland warehouses of industrial Alexandria has turned into a sprawling 1800 square metres of winding floral paths, lush tree shaded tables and occasionally a petting zoo for the kids. With all the effort put into the aesthetics, you’d think food would be an afterthought but if there’s one thing you never do when it comes to The Grounds is underestimate anything (and that includes the line for a table). Meals in the main cafe are rustic and comforting, with a strong paddock-to-plate ethos (so don’t feel so bad for enjoying the bacon in your breakfast roll).

Go on a week day if you’re adverse to waiting for your breakfast, although, some would argue that the line at The Grounds is THE place to be seen on a Sunday morning. If you’re going to wait outside then this is the place to do it.

The Boathouse Balmoral
2 The Esplanade, Mosman, Sydney, 2088
+61 2 9974 5400

Like The Grounds, there’s a strict no reservations policy here which means plenty of line time but if there’s one thing Sydney-siders know how to do well, it’s patiently stand out for a good feed. Unlike The Grounds though, the pressure’s off the Bouthouse team to entertain the waiting hoards. Why would they need to? There’s that breathtaking view across Balmoral Beach that seems to instantly calm even the most hangry (that’s hungry-angry) customer.

Throw in the landscaping genius of landscaper Andrew Goldsmith – he’s the man behind all the charming baskets of flowers – and interior designer Pip Robb and you’ve the recipe for a shore thing (geddit?).

Physic Garden by Kitchen By Mike
1/85 Dunning Avenue, Rosebery, 2018
+61 2 9045 0910

Physic Garden by Kitchen By Mike
1/85 Dunning Avenue, Rosebery, 2018
+61 2 9045 0910

Kitchen By Mike is a short stroll from The Grounds so who could blame them from getting a little green over their neighbours garden artistry. Well, that’s where the similarities end because the KBM team are taking the green thumb trend one step further, specialising in plants that heal. Divided into 5 beds, every herb, fruit and vegetable has been grown for its medicinal uses. Such as parsley and nasturtium for their dermalogical benefits, dill and oregano for gastroenterology and lemongrass for the ear nose and throat. Or you can use them all just for flavour if you REALLY want.

Meg & Dom

Tags: restaurants, Sydney

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