Find yourself on Scotland’s famous whisky island but not a fan of the fire water?
Fear not troubled traveller, for we have a nice little non-booze guide to get you through a three-day nature bender that’ll stun with striking beauty AND leave your liver feeling fresh by the end.
PS: Let us help save you some embarrassment; it’s pronounced Eye-Leh NOT Is-Lay with an Australian twang. Yes, we made this mistake and it was awkward.
The American Monument
Lace up your hiking boots and prepare to get slightly muddy but we guarantee you’ll love us for it. Built in 1920 by the American Red Cross as a memorial for the loss of two troop ships that sunk into the frozen waters off nearby Machir Bay, this dome-shaped monolith on the Mull of Oa sits isolated on one of the most breathtaking hikes you’ll do while in Scotland.
Clearly marked from the Port Ellen drive up to the Oa, the 1-2 hour hike crosses through farmland (never mind the emo-haired Highland cows, they’re gentle giants) and by some intensely sheer cliff faces. Even on a foggy or drizzly day, the view seems to take on the emotion of the weather and even a somber vibe kind of adds to the experience. Things will get emotional.
Machir Bay
Speaking of Machir Bay, despite it’s somewhat grim patches of history, this stretch of practically untouched sand is incredible. Strong currents mean swimming is a no-no but there are almost 2km of dunes to climb and whistling long grasses to sit in and admire the views out onto the Atlantic ocean.
TIP: There’s great parking just behind the dunes for anyone travelling with a caravan, which is a brilliant idea if you’re travelling through Scotland during the peak summer season. We recommend you make good use of Scotland’s no trespassing laws and nab a spot here for a night or two.
Singing Sands Beach
The thing about Islay is it’s so wonderfully devoid of billboards, advertising, or much commercialism at all. This lack of meaningless ‘noise’ means that your mind is totally free to notice the beauty in every crevice. Yes, Singing Sands Beach on Islay’s Oa Peninsula has soft white sand and pretty turquoise water, but look closer and you’ll see the rocks have been so smoothed down over decades of erosion that they practically look soft. Or that the more jagged clusters of stones are hiding sparkling clumps of quartz that shimmer in the sunlight.
The Kildalton Cross
Allow us to blow your mind a little bit. This monolithic stone in the ruins of a former parish church has been standing in the wind and rain since the 8th century AD. Let that sink in a little bit.
The birth of Queen Victoria? It was here.
The moon landing? It was here.
The fall of the Berlin Wall? It was here.
The Cold War? It was here.
The launch of the iPhone? Just here, chilling out and being extremely ancient.
We know that’s obvious but for some reason it really hits you as you stare at the near-perfect carvings as a spooky mist of rain falls all around.
You’ll find the cross in the south of the island. Take the minor road east from Port Ellen, past Lagavulin to the ruined church.
Carraig Fhada Lighthouse
You would’ve spied this either on the route to Singing Sands Beach and climbing the rocks around the structure offers some truly stunning views back towards Port Ellen. Commissioned in 1832 by Walter Frederick Campbell for Lady Ellenor Campbell, there’s a beautiful inscription on a plaque above the door reading;
Ye who mid storms and tempests stray in
dangers midnight hour.
Behold where shines this friendly ray and
hail its guardian tower.
Tis but faint emblem of her light my fond
and faithful guide.
Whose sweet example meekin bright led
through this worlds eventful tide my happy course aright.
And still my guiding star she lives in realms
of bliss above.
Still to my heart blest influence gives and
prompts to deeds of love.
Tis she that bids me on the steep kindle this
beacons flame.
To light the wanderer o`er the deep who safe
shall bless her name.
So may sweet virtue lead your way that
when life`s voyage is o`er.
Secure like her with her you may attain the
heavenly shore.
Because this is Scotland and poetry is everywhere.
TIP: Keep an eye out for sea otters and seals. They are everywhere.
Kilchoman Old Parish Church & Cemetery
We know what you’re thinking, nothing says ‘chill holiday vibes’ like a stroll through some headstones but Scotland isn’t really the place you come for the lighter side of travel. It’s rough and wild, with constantly shifting scenery that’ll have you believing in myths and legends by the end of your journey. No more so than at the Kilchoman Old Parish Church.
Finlaggan Trust Visitors Centre
Take it from us, the swans that reside on Loch Finlaggan are the most territorial creatures you’ll ever come across, with one even swimming a hundred metres across the lake to chase us from the water’s edge.
Then again, this is the ancient home of the Lordship of the Isles, a sacred place where early Scottish nobility and clans (we’re talking Middle Ages here) would meet and commune on land matters. These Lords would rule the Hebridean islands completely independent of royal control for many hundreds of years. It just makes sense that the swans are fiercely patriotic too.
Drive a few miles south-west from Port Askaig to Loch Finlaggan. Take Finlaggan Farm Road and continue down the single track path and you’ll spy a lonely looking cottage that looks like it’s had a seriously nice renovation (one half ancient stonewalls, the other utterly clean and modern). There are clear marking for island access and the ‘bridge to nowhere’ actually ends at a cluster of profoundly significant chapel ruins and gravestones from the 1400s.
What if it rains?
Beg for a table at the Bowmore Hotel
Bowmore Hotel
Jamieson St, Bowmore, Isle of Islay PA43 7HL, United Kingdom
+44 1496 810416
Weather set in and not sure what to do? Embrace the great indoors and revel in the delicious fresh seafood at this 9-bedroom inn in the heart of Bowmore town. This place has such a stellar reputation that they practically beg for non-locals to book weeks in advance but we found that if you ask nicely the owners will work hard to squeeze you into a cosy corner. Ask for the scampi, venison and crab salad and nurse a few wines until the clouds blow over. The beauty of a Scottish summer is that the rain never sets in for too long.
Stay
Finding accommodation in Scotland in the peak of Summer is hard enough, let alone trying to find it on a rural island like Islay. Airbnb will be your best friend but we recommend starting your hunt early to avoid disappointment. Here are a few key suggestions…
Colin & Linda Fraser’s Guest Cottage
Contact: colin.fraser.alma@gmail.com
This is a super charming cabin, complete with bathroom, kitchen and living room, tucked behind the Fraser’s house. It’s right in Bowmore (Islay’s main town) and has completely unobstructed views across the ocean. Perfect for those legendary 11pm sunsets.
Kilchoman Cottages/‘Islay Cottages’
Kilchoman House, Kilchoman, Isle of Islay, PA49 7UY
+44 1496 850382
How remote do you want to get? Want to feel like you’re the only person in the world? Because this cluster of beautifully restored stable conversions might be just the ticket.
With an almost eerie remote setting and stunning backyard views onto Creag Mhor mountain, these charming cottages make for a romantic and authentic place to base yourself
Of course there’s WiFi as well, in case you need to reconnect with reality (but why would you want to do that?).
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