Two hours from the hustle of Sydney but seemingly universe apart, the tranquil vine-covered Hunter Valley has long been a favourite for city-worn wayfarers.
But after a proper explore through Polkolbin most visitors find they’ve still only scratched the surface of this very special part of Australia.
Here’s where it helps to talk to a local.
And when it comes to the Hunter, nobody knows it quite like winemaker Pete Windrim, whose family has been lovingly nurturing the flora and fauna at Krinklewood Biodynamic Vineyard in the Broke Fordwich region for over 30 years.
Windrim’s days are spent analysing lunar cycles, cosmic rhythms and PH balance of the soil to ensure happiest and most organic grapes in the country; so it’s safe to say he’s a reputable source (and might have the best job in the world).
We managed to catch him on a rare day off to snare his Hunter hit list. Here are his secrets… (apart from the Krinklewood cellar door, which is an Garden of Eden-like haven all of its own and must be experienced next time you’re in town).
HIT THE ROAD
“Heading North from Sydney my Hunter experience begins at the Peats Ridge exit off the freeway.
George Downs Drive snakes it’s way through the Yengo National Park and is lined with horse studs and citrus orchards and quaint hand-painted signs offering everything from freshly-squeezed lemonade to freshly-bagged horse poo (for just two bucks).
This narrow road, shadowed by Poplars and Waratahs winds its way on to become the Great North Road and the sense of ‘real farm life’ continues as you keep a keen eye out for wombats and wallabies and point an admiring finger at the pretty blonde ponies along the fence line.
Soon enough you’re on the doorstep of the Great Northern Trading Post, arguably the sweetest wine bar in the country, so a quick tipple or some classic comfort food for lunch is a must.
A little further down the road you roll into historic Wollombi, where I would suggest a good ol’ leg stretch and a sticky beak down the main street. The pub here (Wollombi Tavern) is also legendary, and yes, another tipple is called for, this time I’d suggest a cold schooner out on the gnarled timber deck out back.”
GET HIGH
“Story has it that policemen on horseback were chasing convicts over our high ranges and, at a breath, they were greeted by a beautiful sprawling valley below, just ripe for farming.
Well not everyone is a star horseman, nor can they afford a hot air balloon ride over the valley. So, pack your trainers and head out in almost any direction you can up a hill. Walks tend to start off as vehicle fire trails but you’ll soon be in a cliff top cave looking down over our famous valley marvelling at the first wine-growing area in Australia.”
PIG OUT
“The reigning star of the Hunter is still Robert Molines of Bistro Molines, which is perched high up on the hill in Mount View with food and service as magic as the sprawling scenery below.
His signature dish is suckling pork from pigs we raise on our farm. Down on the valley floor however is the recently opened EXP.restaurant and it is a real scene-stealer.
Casual enough to wear your work boots but food so good it’ll knock your socks off. It’s an intimate and warm space where you can sit up at the bar and chat with head chef Frank Fawkner as he works his magic on the burners.”
GET A DRIVER
“You’re in ‘wine country’, so drink like it’s your wedding day. Hit it out with some legends likeTyrells and Brokenwood.
Then back it up with a fresh player like Harkham Wines. Richie Harkham’s family run a boutique ‘certified kosher’ winery in the valley and their winemaker knocks out one of my favourite reds of the area, Aziza’s Shiraz.
And chatting to Richie himself you can’t help but get excited by his metaphorical riffing about wine.”
GO FOR BROKE
“Often referred to as ‘the tranquil side of the valley’ or ‘the secret side’, Broke is a quiet valley encircled by the towering Brokenback range, which creates a feeling of protection and peace. It’s a tight-knit farming community full of characters, beautiful wineries and cellar doors, and a whole bunch of cute guesthouses. It’s a truly special part of the world.”
Peter Windrim’s Hunter Valley Must-Stop Spots
Krinklewood Wines
+61 02 6579 1322
712 Wollombi Road, Broke, NSW, 2330
Great Northern Trading Post
+61 02 4998 8244
3718 Great North Road, Laguna, NSW, 2325
The Wollombi Tavern
+61 02 4998 3261
2994 Great North Road, Wollombi, NSW, 2325
Bistro Molines
+61 02 4990 9553
Tallavera Grove, 749 Mount View Road, Mount View, NSW, 2325
EXP.restaurant
1596 Broke Road, Pokolbin, NSW, 2320
+61 02 4998 7264
Tyrells Wines
+61 02 4993 7000
1838 Broke Road, Pokolbin, NSW, 2320
Brokenwood Wines
+61 02 4998 7559
401-427 McDonalds Road, Pokolbin, NSW, 2320
Harkham Wines
+61 02 4998 7648
266 De Beyers Road, Pokolbin, NSW, 2320
Follow Peter Windrim on Instagram @peterwindrim
Follow Krinklewood on Instagram @krinklewood
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