North Bondi Fish
120 Ramsgate Avenue, North Bondi, NSW, 2026
+61 2 9130 2155
Sydney suburbs tend to emit their town distinct personalities.
For instance if Newtown was a person they’ve be your artistic bohemian bud who invites you to cool shows and is always handy with vegan curry. Likewise with Elizabeth Bay, which wears its upwardly mobile dual-income no kids flag with pride.
The village-esque neighbourhood that surrounds Bondi Beach slightly more challenging to stereotype. In summer it might roll with a blithe sort of glamour, expertly exuding oh-so-casual cool. In winter, however, a more stripped back approachability takes over. The tourist crowds subside and there’s room to appreciate the finer details rather than just the nearly constantly packed eponymous stretch of sand.
It’s something that the team at North Bondi Fish seem to appreciate, regularly shifting their menu to reflect not only what’s in season but what’s seasonally affective.
Fish is obviously always a staple but as the temps cool down chef Zac Sykes sets his sights firmly on comfort food, such as the steamed Kinkawooka mussels in tomato water, white soy and herbs. More than a dish, this is a cuddle in a bowl. Chilli from the broth clears your sinuses as you probe each mollusc for its fleshy treasure and thick crusty bread sits on hand to cover any lingering carb cravings.
For diners keen to challenge Syke’s searing abilities (and rebel against the rule of ordering steak at a fish restaurant) there’s the Rangers Valley Wagyu rump, served with a side of bone marrow. This is a richly glazed dish designed for fearless carnivores and thankfully perfectly portioned for sharing.
Altogether it’s a menu heralds in Bondi’s winter mood. Gone are the muscle-bound fitness fanatics publicly practicing their lunges, swapped for rugged up die-hards who are just happy to enjoy the feeling of the sea spray on their faces.
Updated review published on May 22, 2017
120 Ramsgate Avenue, North Bondi, NSW, 2026
+61 2 9130 2155
Published December 23, 2015
The location is still perfect and there are still the same impeccable seascape views from the old days of North Bondi Italian but the mood inside the dining room is well and truly new. You’ll still find many of the city’s cool set sipping wines on the balcony, although now they wouldn’t have to twice about bringing the kids along.
Sunglasses by LE SPECS
Not to say that NBF is a family restaurant in the traditional sense. It’s just that a lighter energy of inclusiveness has taken hold. Aided in no small part by Matt Moran and Peter Sullivan’s (of Morsul, who also run ARIA, Chiswick and Opera Bar) menu of traditional beachside favourites. We all know it’s just not a Sydney summer unless you’ve had beer battered fish or Moreton Bay bugs at least once.
In typical Morsul style though they’ve taken everything up a notch or two. Deep-fried avoidant locals are well taken care of with the seared Mooloolaba swordfish steak or anything from the RAW section of the menu (we had the Walker Albacore Tuna in sesame and ginger soy).
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If we had to give it a name we’d say NBF specialises in sophisticated accessibility.
We’ve noticed that a lot of these types of venues seem to be cropping up a lot lately.
Maybe it’s because all the restaurateurs are growing up and having offspring of their own? Or maybe we’re noticing them more because WE’RE the ones growing up?
Either way, it feels like one egalitarian epicurean party and we’re all invited.
Highly recommended:
We know that you’re probably used to Sydney’s slightly emaciated size of starter. We’re happy to share that this is most definitely NOT the case at NBF. If you order the Snow Crab Sliders or Whiting Fillet Tacos we highly recommend you grab a knife and halve them. Enjoying a whole serve to yourself will be super satisfying but will seriously impact on your ability to enjoy the rest of the mains on the menu. Nobody wants that.
