Oregon. The beaver state. The river of the West. The lush, green haven where weary Californians dash to escape state taxes, revel in the friendly property values and, of course, indulge in the melange of craft breweries.
For the last 10 years, the hipster hub of Portland has been the main attraction for travellers looking to dip into the state’s special blend of cosmopolitan-meets-counterculture spirit. And there’s still plenty of that to go round, however, as it occasionally is with success, some of the more authentic edges have been buffed out as the Rose City hit the mainstream.
We say, if you really want to get to know what makes Oregon such a special state, drive a little further inland to its central heart and follow the signs to a little city called Bend.
Population: 76, 639. Breweries: 29 (and counting).
Yes, Bend has traditionally made its name on the hops and barley circuit but it’s not like everyone in town is just walking around in a haze of beer and reasonably priced real estate. There’s so much to love about this place that we couldn’t possibly fit it into one internet article. So in the interest of brevity here’s 5 reasons we think Bend kicks serious arse.
1. The Traffic Won’t Destroy Your Soul
Let’s get this out of the way early. Traffic is a big deal in Portland at the moment. Anyone who has accidentally found themselves between the Interstate 5 and Hell at 5.30pm on a standard afternoon will know the mind-numbing pain of inching home minute by minute. God help the inexperienced visitor who puts all their trust into their Google Maps to get them through. We have news for you, the ‘shortcuts’ tool doesn’t help when every other driver is trying to work the system the same way.
It’s an issue the local council is working on and we have no doubt will be solved over the next decade or so but as it is with all blocked exits and ram-rod roadways, there exists a silver lining. This gives everyone an opportunity to truly appreciate the good-old-days vibe of Bend’s relatively uncrowded streets. This is like the Portland of yore, where a person could leave work at a reasonable hour and make it home in time for the 6’clock news and a snuggle with their kids before bedtime.
2. Creativity & Collaboration Is King
While Portland is still a Mecca for hip-business and undoubtedly the undisputed home of the craft industry (brewing and otherwise), there’s something to be said for being the big fish in the, relatively, small pond that is Bend.
There are over 20 well-known microbreweries in Bend alone, which is more than most large-scale cities. What makes each special though is how much they each contribute to the local community.
For instance, the famous Deschutes Brewery on Bond Street sends their spent grain and super oxygenated water to local cattle farmers to use as feed. It just so happens that same beef ends up on the famous Deschutes burger, so even if you’re not a drinker you can still find a way to get involved in Bend’s brewing culture.
Or head to the Old Iron Works Arts District which houses some of the city’s most unique and creative artisans under a single roof, including one who paints beautiful watercolours out of, yes, you guessed it… beer.
Okay, so maybe beer is what makes Bend go around after all. Moving on…
3. Are You Into Nice Weather? Good, Because Bend Has Got A Ton Of It.
It’s not unusual to see yellow spots row after row after row when you put ‘weather + Bend’ into Google. It’s all thanks to Central Oregon’s sweet High Desert Central climate cultivating 158 clear blue skies per year (on average).
When you’ve had your fill of hiking/climbing/boating and winter finally rolls around you can spend your days skiing the superfine powder at nearby Mount Bachelor right up until almost 9pm, when rays finally start to dim.
4. You Can Have Your Mind Blown Without Doing The Same Thing With Your Budget
Oregon boasts the kind of raw, untouched landscapes worthy of ‘Seven Wonder Of The World’ status but minus the ballyhoo. You’ve got roaring waterfalls to the left of you, snow-capped mountains to your right and Bend stuck in the middle with two ancient volcanic craters which may or may not explode one day.
It’s a terrain with personality, that’s for sure. And let’s say you’re the kind of traveller that’s big on adventure but you don’t quite have the bank account to match, fear not, Bend is your BFF. In fact, you can even make a fun game pushing the limits of how much natural beauty you can experience without forking out for a tour.
For instance, you can drive approximately 15 minutes out of town to Tumalo Falls, where we recommend you climb over the railing** and (carefully) walk towards pool at the bottom and have your face misted by the freshest H2O this side of Promised Land.
** For the record, we’re sure you’re not meant to climb over the railing but decades of ‘rule breakers’ have forged a little pathway from the lookout to the falls. So in the interest of forest protection, just stick to that well-worn path and maybe minimise any further off-roading.
Or, head about 37 minutes north from town to Smith Rock, which is like a bucket list destination without the crowds.
Best known for its dramatic red rock crags that almost resemble something out of a backdrop from the final scenes of Lord of the Rings, Smith Rock is actually a peaceful oasis for the Golden eagles, mule deer and the river otters that call its waterways home.
Start your day early, beat the sun and challenge yourself to the Misery Ridge Trail. It’s a couple of miles of switchbacks and steady climbing (so it’s not just a clever name) but it’s all about the summit, where you can view the crevasse with an eagle’s perspective.
The best part? All you need is fuel and a park pass (Smith Rock State Park entry is $US5 per day, $US30 for the year.)
Getting to Tumalo Falls: Follow Galveston Avenue through the roundabout to Skyliner Road, follow this for about 10 miles until you get to Forest Road 4601. Take this for about 2.5 miles and you’ll spy a car park and viewing platform.
Getting to Smith Rock: Take the US-97 to the town of Terrebonne. Turn east onto B Avenue, which becomes Smith Rock Way, take a left onto NE 1st Avenue which becomes NE Wilcox Avenue, follow for a mile to Crooked River Drive and finally turn left onto Smith.
5. . … But If You Have A Little Cash To Dash Then You Can Seriously Take Things Up A Notch
Much like die-hard devotees who make the annual pilgrimage to the holy Mount Kailash in Tibet, each year climbers from across the globe pack their ropes and their wills and head to Smith Rock State Park. AKA, the unofficial birthplace of modern American climbing.
This is where the early pioneers of the sport, such as Portland’s Jack Watts and Jerry Ramsey, established the first climbing lines and scaled the first vertical slabs in the region armed with only a pair of Converse sneakers and a manic desire to go further than anyone had gone before.
But whether you’re a newbie boulderer or consider yourself a Stallone-level ‘Cliffhanger’, it’s well worth hiring a guide for your first time. Not only is it helpful to get pointed to the best routes in the park but a true climbing expert always knows where the best shaded routes can be found when those High-Desert temperatures hit the 40s (that’s 100s for our US readers).
We climbed with Jim at Chockstone Climbing Guides. Guided climbs start from $US265 per day for 1 person/$US160 per day for 2 people.
PLUS… 6. They Have These Things Called ‘Ocean Rolls’ & They’re Amazing
Make sure you stop at The Sparrow Bakery on Scott Street. Their salty floral cardamom sugar-flaked ‘Ocean Rolls’ are world famous, and for good reason. They’ve got the perfect blend of savoury and sweet down pat, along with a lingering taste of herbs that’ll have you thinking twice about brushing your teeth later on because you won’t want to ruin the flavour.
In Conclusion…
You’ve got chill traffic, sophisticated foodie culture but with that personal old-school service with a smile, plus all the sun you can soak up. Get yourself to Bend fast so you can claim that you knew about it well before it went mainstream.
