With its red martian-like soil and snow capped peaks juxtaposing the rest of tropical Big Island, we don’t think we’re understating it when we say that the summit of Mauna Kea is one of the most profoundly curious and affecting places you’ll ever visit.
Just don’t tell everybody.
We realise we’re contradicting ourselves by saying that and then sharing this out but as long as people know the rules there’s no reason to fear it getting ruined.
That’s why it’s important to flag straight up that Mauna Kea is one of, if not, the most sacred sites for native Hawaiians. Originally only high-ranking tribal chiefs were only allowed near it’s summit so it’s contentious enough that 11 countries now have up 13 telescopes on it’s ridge (although we wager that the unique mix of science and mythology only makes it more remarkable). An ugly mass of clueless tourists traipsing around turning it into ‘Ayers Rock’ in the 1980s is a definite DON’T.
What we’re saying is that when it comes to MK, Hawiian Parks and Recreation are pretty strict.
And it’s all the better for it.
Only about 6 tour companies are legitimately allowed to take visitors up to top and only at certain times. Lone travellers do try to attempt the rugged 40-minute chest-shrinking drive to the peak but their rental cars usually only reach halfway and give up, forcing drivers to leave their vehicles behind and hitchhike back down.
The superstitious might say that Poli’ahu, Goddess of Mauna Kea, is having her say on who deserves to reach the top, while others might simply blame two-wheel drive. Either way, leave the driving to the experts and you’ll be fine.
It’s exactly this impression of hard won accessibility that attracts the kind of people you want to share a tour bus with. Eco-conscious backpackers, photographers and passionate nature lovers are all drawn to Mauna Kea’s heart-stopping sunset views. Not difficult to see why…
There are 30 or 40 other visitors at the summit, each scrambling for that perfect angle but all in a collective hush unlike anything we’ve ever experienced before. Anyone who’s visited a tourist hotspot knows that silence is not something that large groups of strangers excel in. Except for here.
It’s most likely due to the altitude forcing everyone to prioritize their words but at the magic moment when the sun hits the clouds the crowd is rendered speechless. The only sound you’ll hear is furious clicking of photographers trying to out timelapse each other.
Oliver Peoples sunglasses, Fallen Broken Street hat.
While we were there a crafty tour guide had the foresight to play Caribbean Blue from his car stereo at this precise time. At any other juncture during our regular lives this might come off cringe-inducing but just trust that if you’re ever going to listen to some ethereal folk melodies this might be just the place to do it.
Sticklers for the facts are quick to share that Mauna Kea is, in fact, taller than Mount Everest. Making the distinction that while Everest is top dog when it comes to altitude above sea level, for sheer below-ocean-to-sky ratio Mauna Kea sits a comfortable 1,152 metres higher. Making it just remote enough for us to candidly enjoy some Enya without anybody else knowing.
CITIZENS OF THE WORLD toured with
Arnott’s Lodge and Hiking Adventures
Arnott’s are one of the few tour companies with official summit access. Meaning that you can feel safe that your presence will be square with both Poli’ahu and the more corporate Powers That Be.
They’re on the Hilo side of the Big Island but even if you’re across in the resort territory of Waikoloa you can still meet the group at the Pu’u Huluhulu Cinder Cone at the base of the Mauna Kea climb. Most tours spend time here to acclimate to the elevation anyway and it makes for a nice introduction to the beauty that awaits you at the top.
Crumpler backpack in SPINNING VORTEX
The drive along Saddle Road from Waikoloa is an experience in itself. Looking out the window you’ll see landscape that goes from dry gum tree forests to grass covered hills, all the way to mysterious moody fogs. Brilliant in every aspect.
If you can choose your guide, ask for Dave. On our tour he was full of local lore and general gossip, pointing out locations where NASA test-drove their Mars rovers across the barren red terrain and that some die-hard conspiracy theorists even still now think that the original rover footage was actually shot in Hawaii.
Actually an accomplished sailor by day, he also knew a great deal about how the ancient Hawaiians used the skies to navigate between the islands which made for a truly educational post sunset star show.
Dress ski-weather warm. Arnott’s provide warm weather jackets that do the trick but you’ll enjoy your experience even more if you aren’t rushing back to the bus.
Cars are pretty much mandatory in Hawaii and so every big brand rental company you can think of has an office here to take advantage of the captive market.
Unlike Australia, where we’ve been trained to just go straight to the majors, in Hawaii it’s completely normal and actually smarter to go through a middle-man when it comes to rentals. DHCR are well-known on the islands and they basically just negotiate a better rate with the Alamo and Thriftys on your behalf. You’ll save heaps and deal with a human being. Which is always nice.
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